Saturday 18 February 2012

'Back to Black' by Shinsuke Mitsouka


 
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A dark invention of free will, ‘Liberum Arbitrium’ is the spring-summer collection 2012 from couture designer Shinsuke Mitsouka. Based in Paris, the graduate from Nottingham Trent University presents individuality and creative flair of London to the couture influences of the city of Paris to a futuristic look to a gothic inspired collection. The entire collection is dark and mysterious; models are motionless with only their piercing eyes to absorb and create an edgy dramatic atmosphere.
 
 
Image courtesy of www.the-coterie.net

‘Back to black’ is a term that should be used loosely throughout this collection of sheer fabrics and leather - heavily laced with exposed zip lined trims on structural tailoring -  the use of soft fabrics made to look harsh and menacing upon the eyes. Clear influences of Japanese culture, the flight of a ninja takes to the catwalk in a long draped jacket with high collared neckline covering the face but rests just above the tip of the nostrils, of the assassin, with no more than a glare sharp enough to cut through the deepest and darkest of steel covered in vertical zip detailing to add a fashion-edge.  Clearly this is a woman to be feared and not loved.
 
 
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Sheer fabrics carefully laddered uncovered exposing bosoms left untouched or dressed with draped jackets, and the freedom of soft fabrics were accessorised with laddered arm braces. A structured shouldered dress took the catwalk embellished with exposed zips pannelling the silhouette of the model like armoury as the protective measure from instruments of death. 


But it was the handkerchief dress that stole the show. The transparency of the sheer sleeved laddered top unveils the face and unveils the suppression of all human emotion. 

 
Images courtesy of www.blowpresents.wordpress.com

Saturday 4 February 2012

Inbar Spector SS12


Israeli-born designer, Inbar Spector's vision of destruction and devastation is an unique explosive take on the dimensions between 'Nightmares' and 'hell'. In her dystopia, we are exposed to the truths behind growing up in conflict.  Violent images of terror swept through the collection, ever exposing us to the war torn images we are so used to witnessing in Israel, formed foundation to her eponymous showcase of intricate skill and craftmanship for SS12.

Image Courtesy of www.alexloves.com

A graduate of Isaraeli's Shenkar College in 2004, Spector's journey has been a euphoric trip to international acclaim from France to Japan to capturing the imagination of London's cutting edge as a finalist of Vauxhall Fashion Scouts  'One to Watch'.
Spector's jaw-dropping visual art sets off with metallic oversized brocade jackets coupled with carefully constructed crinoline skirts and beautiful corsetry, and amazing concertina detailing creates a dream-like world of ruffles, in total contrast to that of hell. Cleverly finding a fine line between the realms of heaven and hell, in actual fact, the collection is somewhat an angelic tale as oppose to the demonic references, one usually associates.

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Renown for her monochramatic look, Inbar Spector's SS12 delivers a heavenly palette of soft pinks and pastel mints, gold metallics notwithstanding her trademark black and white; staying forever true to her signature style of transparent sheer mesh fabrics taking us further to the depths of a gothic inspired collection. 

 
The operatic sounds adds a dramatic atmosphere as we draw closer to the end of an enchanting tale where the crowd gasps and the cameras chattering in the background as two poignant pieces grace the catwalk: a model engulfed in waves of white ruffles with a sparkle of gold corsetry and a gold straight jacket with a lantern-like base takes to the catwalk leaving the crowd applauding with great intensity.

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